If you print large, or do commercial work, it is good to be detail oriented. Most people will never see the details that drive you nuts at 100%. What is purpose of the photograph? If it is only to post on the web, perfection is not necessary, unless you are wired that way! Then it is probably best to put your expectations low, and give yourself time to figure out the best way for you to meet your goals. That may rule out the problem of software that is just not up to the job. I'd also suggest that you use the trial versions of Helicon & Zerene with your images as well. Much of this will be a recap from the fine suggestions above.Īs noted above, enough in focus slices for the stack is critical. hopefully he will join the discussionThanks for the vote of confidence, pearsaab, but not really a master. Having lots of overlap between shots means the alignment can do a much better job and you get a nice smooth is a master at stacking. Remember tiny focus movements and get as much depth of field as you can get away with. This is a 137 image focus stack I did and while it does show some artefacts those are due to the very complex geometry of the object being photographed: The general process I use and learned from is this one. For software I use Hugin for doing the image alignment (GUI) and the enfuse tool for actually combining the images. I will start with the focus closest to the lens and work out and then when I get slightly past the object work back in. By a lot of shots I mean well over a hundred and with small focus adjustments I mean that with the D FA 100/2.8 WR Macro I will usually be taking 3 shots for each 1 rib of movement on the focusing ring. I will typically have the lens stopped down to at least f/8 if not f/11 to also increase the depth of field. My method is generally to take lots of shots with very minor changes in focus.
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